color: handle 'ui.plain()' directly in mode setup
If 'ui.plain()' is set we should not colorize. We move that logic into the
function that determine and setup the color mode. As all other code respect
the resulting mode this will be equivalent.
#
# Avoid interference from actual test env:
unset HGTEST_JOBS
unset HGTEST_TIMEOUT
unset HGTEST_PORT
unset HGTEST_SHELL